A model for blocking of periodic waves

I. K. Suastika; J. A. Battjes

doi:10.1142/S0578563409001953

A model for blocking of periodic waves

I. K. Suastika, J. A. Battjes

Delft University of Technology

Research output: Contribution to journal › Article › peer-review

10 Citations (Scopus)

Abstract

In this paper, we present a model for the amplitude evolution of periodic waves blocked by a counter current. The model consists of a WKB-solution for slowly varying waves far from the blocking point which is matched with a uniformly-valid approximation for the rapidly varying waves near the blocking point. Wave energy dissipation is taken into account both in the regions far from and near to the blocking point. The predicted pattern of wave amplitude evolution agrees well with observations.

Original language	English
Pages (from-to)	81-99
Number of pages	19
Journal	Coastal Engineering Journal
Volume	51
Issue number	2
DOIs	https://doi.org/10.1142/S0578563409001953
Publication status	Published - Jun 2009

Keywords

Amplitude evolution
Periodic waves
Wave blocking
Wave dissipation

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10.1142/S0578563409001953

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title = "A model for blocking of periodic waves",

abstract = "In this paper, we present a model for the amplitude evolution of periodic waves blocked by a counter current. The model consists of a WKB-solution for slowly varying waves far from the blocking point which is matched with a uniformly-valid approximation for the rapidly varying waves near the blocking point. Wave energy dissipation is taken into account both in the regions far from and near to the blocking point. The predicted pattern of wave amplitude evolution agrees well with observations.",

keywords = "Amplitude evolution, Periodic waves, Wave blocking, Wave dissipation",

author = "Suastika, {I. K.} and Battjes, {J. A.}",

note = "Funding Information: This research project was partly supported by the Technology Foundation STW, The Netherlands and the LPPM ITS Surabaya, Indonesia under grant no. 10483/I2.7/PM/2008.",

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AU - Suastika, I. K.

AU - Battjes, J. A.

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N2 - In this paper, we present a model for the amplitude evolution of periodic waves blocked by a counter current. The model consists of a WKB-solution for slowly varying waves far from the blocking point which is matched with a uniformly-valid approximation for the rapidly varying waves near the blocking point. Wave energy dissipation is taken into account both in the regions far from and near to the blocking point. The predicted pattern of wave amplitude evolution agrees well with observations.

AB - In this paper, we present a model for the amplitude evolution of periodic waves blocked by a counter current. The model consists of a WKB-solution for slowly varying waves far from the blocking point which is matched with a uniformly-valid approximation for the rapidly varying waves near the blocking point. Wave energy dissipation is taken into account both in the regions far from and near to the blocking point. The predicted pattern of wave amplitude evolution agrees well with observations.

KW - Amplitude evolution

KW - Periodic waves

KW - Wave blocking

KW - Wave dissipation

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JO - Coastal Engineering Journal

JF - Coastal Engineering Journal

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A model for blocking of periodic waves

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Keywords

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